Fabric suggestions: Any soft fabric such as batiste, flannel, other light weight cottonwovens or knits
Notions: thread to match fabric color, 4"strip of snap tape for center front closure, 1 yard of 1/4" satin ribbon to match fabric.
Cutting layout: One dress requires a 17" length of 36" or 45" wide fabric. There are 3 pattern pieces:. dress front, dress back and neckline bias strip. Place pattern fabric so grainline arrow is parallel to selvage edge.
Sewing Instructions
All seams except center front (CF) and hems are 1/4" wide. Seam finishing is optional. Appropriate choices would be pinking, zig-zagging or serging.
1. With right sides together, stitch center front (CF) seam 1" wide, as marked on pattern, from bottom edge to 3 1/4" from neck opening. Back stitch to secure seam. Press seam allowances to right side (see figure 1). Unstitched section of CF seam will form placket for snap tape closure.
Figure 1
Figure 2
2. Place snap tape in placket seam aligning tape edge with CF stitching line. Position top snap about 1/2" from neckline edge. Trim tape length to fit placket. Pin in place and stitch along both sides of tape (see figure 2).
3. Turn dress to wrong side and continue stitching CF seam another 1/2" toward neckline to finish lower edge of placket. Topstitch lower placket edge perpendicular to CF from right side of dress and through all layers.
4. With right sides together, pin and stitch front and back shoulder seams together. Stay stitch the neckline seam of 1/4" seam allowance (see figure 3).
Figure 3
5. Turn under 1/2" sleeve hem on foldline. Press. Turn under raw edge to 1/4" finished width. Stitch in place along inside fold (see figure 4).
Figure 4
Figure 5
6. Pin and stitch side and underarm seams together (see figure 5).
7. Finish neck edge with bias binding. Purchased binding in matching or contrasting color may be substitued. Finished width of binding should be 1/4"-3/16".
With right sides together and beginning at CF placket edge, leave 1/4" seam allowance on bias binding and pin raw edges of binding and neckline together, slightly stretching, binding while pinning. Trim length of binding to 1/4" seam allowance at opposite end of neckline (see figure 6). Stitch, then press.
Fold binding ends in at CF. Then, fold binding over neckline edge. Press (see figure 7). Finish inside edge of binding by folding up raw edge to 1/4" - 3/16" width. Pin and stitch in place by hand or by stitching in the ditch from front side (see figure 8).
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8
8. Hem bottom for drawstring. Turn up 3/4" hem allowance and fold to 3/8" width. Stitch in place along inside fold, leaving 1" opening at one side through which to slip ribbon (Figure 9). Pin end of ribbon to safety pin and slip through casing. On unopened side, stitch or tack ribbon in place to keep it from pulling out.
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